Where to eat in Hoi An, Vietnam
There are two, maybe three, dishes you definitely need to try in Hoi An:
- cao lau
- Madame Khanh’s banh mi
- mi Quang (optional)
Cao lau
Cao lau literally translates as “high floor.” Legend has it that back in the day when Hoi An was colonized by the French, those with money ate on the higher floors, and this dried noodle dish, full of fresh herbs and greens, was popular for its light, refreshing flavors. Today, tradition continues, and to eat this dish, you have to climb up to the restaurant’s upper floor.Side note/protip: In Vietnam, the ground floor is not counted towards the number of floors in a structure. What we Americans call the second floor, the Vietnamese call the first floor. So if a Vietnamese host tells you to go to the second floor, you will need to climb two flights of stairs, not one.Cao lau is indigenous to Hoi An. It’s what the town is famous for, aside from being practically the only town untouched by the war. What makes cao lau special is the noodles: they’re made using particular ash with particular water from particularly nearby sources, which means you can’t really get cao lau elsewhere. While I’m far fonder of many other Vietnamese noodle dishes, I enjoyed its delicate uniqueness, and I dare not argue with anyone who claims cao lau to be there absolute favorite Vietnamese noodle dish.We tried cao lau at a stall inside the Hoi An Market, where you can buy all sorts of food items and souvenirs.
Mi Quang
Mi Quang was another noodle dish we ate inside the Hoi An Market. This dish is from the Quang Nam province and can be found in other cities, but it’s considered a pride of central Vietnam.I’ve had different versions of mi Quang—some dried, some soupy, some with pork and shrimp, others with chicken or tofu—but what remains the common factor of mi Quang are the fact that it’s a noodle dish and that it contains turmeric. You’ll often find a crispy rice cracker with black sesame seeds garnishing the dish as well.
Banh Mi Ba Khanh (Madame Khanh Sandwiches)
Last but not least is the famous Banh Mi Ba Khanh, which sells some insanely high number of sandwiches on a daily basis. Displayed throughout the restaurant are business cards and photos of people who have eaten here, including Anthony Bourdain. Madame Khanh’s sandwiches are very good, although the hubs and I still prefer Banh Mi Huynh Hoa in Saigon. The BIL, however, thought this was the superior sandwich.It’s a good stop for a light meal before setting out on the streets of Hoi An. Or do as many locals do and order some to go for a midday snack.I wish I had the time to also experience Hoi An at night, but all the eating we did made it a worthwhile day trip regardless. Have you ever been to Hoi An? Which city or town was your favorite in Vietnam?Hoi An Market1 Bach Dang St.Hoi An, VietnamPhone: +84 0165 508-2469Banh Mi Ba Khanh (Madame Khanh)115 Tran Cao Van St.Hoi An, VietnamPhone: +84 90 666-0309