The best madeleines at St. John Restaurant, fish ’n chips at Golden Hind, and chicken tikka masala at Tayyabs in London

The first time I came to London, I was 22, fresh out of college, and traveling on a young backpacker’s dime. This meant I ate a lot of hostel breakfasts and fast food. I was later told London is home to the best restaurants in the UK, and now that I have a little more money in the bank, I was able to splurge on food beyond cold cereal and Big Macs (which, if I recall correctly, tasted just like their American counterparts).On day 1 of our UK & Ireland trip, we flew from Houston to London. I won’t review the airline food because you already know how I felt about that. Right after we landed and dropped off our luggage, we headed straight to Bar Smith for a post-flight, pre-dinner cocktail. Then, it was time for our first [grown-up’s] meal in London!

St. John Restaurant

Purportedly the original modern nose-to-tail restaurant having opened in 1994, St. John (also called by the district in which it’s located, Smithfield) is a relatively quiet, unassuming restaurant specializing in offal. Right inside is the bakery counter, and upstairs is the restaurant floor and open kitchen. I don’t know if I expected more hoopla surrounding this famous place, but it was rather stark and uncrowded during our Saturday evening visit, even though I’d thought we’d gotten lucky with same-day reservations.We ordered almost everything on the menu, and while most things fell in the neutral zone on the love-hate spectrum, the best dish came last. I’m much more a savory gal than a sweet one, but these madeleines (pictured at top) were to die for. Maybe it was because their buttery unctuousness made them more rich than sweet. I regret not picking up a dozen from the bakery counter on the way out.St. John Restaurant26 St. John St.Smithfield, London EC1M 4AYUnited Kingdom+44 20 7251 0848

Golden Hind

You didn’t think we’d just have one dinner, did you? We chose fish ’n chips for dinner #2.The Golden Hind was busy and reeked of fried foods, just how I’d like my greasy spoons. Service was quick—we got our cod, haddock, chips (what Americans call “fries”), and mushy peas shortly after ordering. The fish were battered and fried perfectly, but the chips were bland and too soggy for my taste—no double-fry method here. I quite liked the peas, as they were a welcoming soft texture in contrast to the crispy fish. Drowned the fish in malt vinegar, dipped it in tartar sauce, and it was fried fish heaven.Golden Hind73 Marylebone Ln.Marylebone, London W1U 2PNUnited Kingdom+44 20 7486 3644

Tayyabs

I’ve heard the best Indian and Pakistani food in the world is found, not in Mumbai nor Islamabad, but right here in London. On our second day in London, after venturing to Stonehenge in Salisbury, we had dinner at Tayyabs. We were advised to call ahead for a reservation to skip the often long wait, but on a Sunday evening, the restaurant, albeit filled, didn’t have a queue. Tayyabs is also BYOB, so don’t forget to pick up some wine or beer beforehand.Tayyabs is family-operated and specializes in Punjabi cuisine. Of course, we ordered Britain’s national dish, chicken tikka masala, along with the dry grilled lamb chops, saag paneer, biryani, samosas, garlic naan, and mango lassi.The lassi turned out bland, but the food was pretty good and cheap. It wasn’t mind-blowing though. In fact, I can’t say it beats Himalaya in Houston, which has superior biryani and chicken tikka masala (though to Tayyabs credit, the dishes were a bit different so I’ll attribute my preference to cultural differences in taste). The lamb chops and samosas were our favorite by far, but when the bill came out, we were pleasantly surprised by how relatively inexpensive the meal was in comparison to other London eats.Tayyabs83-89 Fieldgate St.Whitechapel, London E1 1JUUnited Kingdom+44 20 7247 6400These three places all have history: St. John has been open for 21 years, Tayyabs for 43, and the Golden Hind for a whopping 101! Ever eaten at any of the three? What did you think? Where would you go to get your fix of madeleines, fish ’n chips, and Punjabi fare?